Lower Dolpo Trek

A flight to Nepalgunj is an interesting way that takes over just an hour to finally reach there.

By the time you arrive at Nepalgunj, you will see a completely different world: new landscapes, new people, a new language, new culture, new weather, and new markets. The temperature is always high in the summer. Plus, you can barely see the hills around.

In the evening, dealing with the mosquitoes, and sometimes bedbugs can be annoying. So, it is better to carry some mosquito-repellent cream or anything to avoid these parasites

From Nepalgunj, it takes around 25-30 minutes to arrive at Juphal, which is the entry point to the Dolpo region. Before landing, you will come across some of the exquisite vistas of silvery-white mountains, particularly of Dhaulagiri in the east and Kanjiroba Himal in the northwest.

Also, the deep gorges are an important part of the Dolpo. The stunning cliffs of rocks and stones appear as tiny as the dumplings (of varied shapes), spread randomly in a plate.

Soon after we land at the airport, we will have tea at Juphal. Then, along the trail fenced by the maize fields, we will proceed to Dunai. The trail runs parallel to the Thulobheri river until we show-off at Dunai, a nice and quiet village where apples are grown. This is why I prefer to call Dunai “an Apple town” despite that it is not a town.

Following the Bheri River, traveling east (sometimes southeast), we will waver up and down along the changing terrain of Dolpo towards the Tarakot. Few sections in the trail are exposed and some of them run steep; otherwise, the trail is not so taxing.

After Byasghar, we will walk through a Bon Monastery near Baijibara. The stone walls, built around the fields, are the inkling of arrival at Tarakot. However, to arrive at the Tarakot, we still need to climb a short uphill section.

While the lodges are available at Tarakot, many people prefer camping there.

From Tarakot, we will walk on the southern bank of the Thulobheri river until Laisicap, where the river divides into the two: Bharbung Khola and the Tapap Khola. Bharbung Khola leads east to the unexplored valleys of Dolpo; however, instead of going along the Bharbung Khola, we will keep ourselves on the west bank of the Tarap Khola.

Within a few hours of walking, you will arrive at a point where the views of the Dhaulagiri and Churen Himal begin to show-off. Across the river, we could see the monastery of Chhedhul. We will walk along the path until we arrive at the Laina Odar, where a beautiful waterfall cascades furiously down to touch the soil.

A trek to Nawarpani from Laina Odar is a long walk along the sinuous route that is full of amazing surprises. Sometimes, it is the mountains that sprout up the horizon to startle you, while other times, it is just the elegantly positioned rocky cliffs that create an animation in the air. This walk is worth of the entire endeavor.

Through the Chhyugar, we will escape the seemingly invincible cliffs to arrive at the Nawarpani. Although there are not many good views to see, Nawarpani is still a perfect place to spend a night

For the first few couples of hours, the trek to Dho Tarap is literally uninteresting as there are no compensating views while climbing on few sheer-like slopes on the way.

The trail runs by the side of the Ghyamghar where there is a beautiful monastery that remains closed in most days of the year. We will continue our walk through Sisaul, battling with the heights of the uneven rocky slopes. By the time we arrive at Langa, we could see a short rising hill, climbing which we could descend to Dho Tarap, the first settlement that epitomizes the cultural and natural beauty of the Dolpo region.

A unique set of chortens, wrapped by the prayer flags, gives color and warmth to the village of Dho Tarap. These set of chortens appear so organic and natural that you will realize that you have gone very far into the time, at least far enough from the modern world.

Besides Chortens, there are also monasteries to see, whose interiors and exteriors are lavished by the paintings of several Buddhist deities. Few distances ahead, near the exit point of the Dho Tarap, there is a Kani Gate featuring 8 sacred symbols on its four sides. It is indeed a wonderful place to stay.

You may go for a side trip to Shipchok and Dhoro Gompas

A trek to Numa La Base Camp is full of excellent muses. This day can be called a “cultural trek day “as you will come across some of the elegantly designed chortens and monasteries on the way. While not all they will be open, there are still enough monasteries to enter and stumble across.

We will leave the Dho Tarap early in the morning and proceed towards a traditional village of Tokyu, which features some of the peculiar monasteries of Dolpo region, quaint houses, and also some of the unique Kani Gates. Through this village, we will cross the river to Kanger and then, continue along a never-ending steep slope until we arrive at the Numa La Base Camp. On the way, we could see the rocky faces of Numa La pass.

As it happens while crossing most of the high passes, this day is not going to be an easy one. The climb to the Numa La pass will let you know what it means to grab a perfect view.

Early in the morning, we will leave the base camp and proceed towards the Danigar along the steep slopes. The trails are now narrow and exposed, so it is quite a threatening ascend. Once you reach the massive height of the Numa La pass, the views are all yours.

The colorful prayer flags, wrapped over the stones, are mostly torn by the pace of the wind, but still one can enjoy its flapping movement. From there, the views of the Dhaulagiri and Churen Himal are unbiased and ravishing. The moments spent on the top of the pass are reminiscing.

Then, we will make a painful descend to Danigar, which will be our next stop-over for the night.

Although not as difficult as yesterday, this day is not going to be an easy one either.

From Danigar, we will take a short steep ascent, and then the altitude gradually rises to the Bagala La Pass. There are a few chortens and Buddhist stones (worshipped stones) on the pass that are kept to ward off the spirits and demons. It is an exciting place to sit.

From Baga La pass, we will go down to Temche.

Just south of the Temche, there is a Chhoital Lake which is beautiful and appears turquoise in the winter. We will descend to the Yak Kharka and then to the Maduwa through the rewarding forests of pines, juniper, and cypress.

Far below, we could see a winter village of Ringmo. After this viewpoint, we will descend along the interesting trail where the views are blocked by the high but beautifully shaped rocky spires. Witnessing the highest waterfall, we will arrive at the Ringmo.

Leaving a spare day for exploration at Ringmo is worth everything. While there are not much to see except the Phoksundo Lake, the supporting rocky buttresses and far-rising snow spires create a defying outlook.

The climb to the Phoksundo Lake can be taxing, but once you are there, the views are all yours. Everything around appears so dramatic and vivid. This Phoksundo lake is the deepest and second largest lake of Nepal, which appears turquoise in color.

Regarding the formation of this lake, the geologists believe that a massive landslide occurred in the past and blocked all the water of Phoksundo Khola (river) that resulted in the formation of the Lake. On the other hand, the people of Dolpo believe in the mythical existence of this lake

It is a nice walk to Shyanta. We will descend down to the Samduwa and cross the Pugma Khola. Then, keeping to the east, we will walk to the Rechi where the views of the Kanjiroba (Kanjirowa) Himal appear sensational. This view doesn’t last long, once we start descending to Chhepka.

Parallel to the river of Phoksundo, the trail enters into a tranquil forest, flaunting some of the unique species of birds and insects. One can hear the melody of the chirping birds while on the way. It is a natural walk. Then, down the bluff, we will arrive at Chhepka.

Shyanta is just a few kilometers away from Chhepka.

Along the Suli Khola, we will descend to Kageni and then to Rupgad via a newly built bridge. We may as well turn east and then contour through the Juphal, but it is not worthy of anything as we have already spent a day in Dunai.

Juphal will arrive within a few minutes from Rupgad.

We will catch a return flight to Nepalgunj, and then on the same day, we will return to Kathmandu by another flight.