Upper Mustang Trek with Ghorepani Poon Hill

Sightseeing in Kathmandu is, indeed, one of the best ways to create some lifelong memories. The best time to head out for sightseeing is in the early morning and the late afternoon, except in the scorching sun. Only then, you will be able to explore the centuries-old classic architectures and its godly inspired designs fully. They are beautiful, elegant and inspirational if you pay closer attention to the details of the design. At a glance, one might not be as amazed as they should be. But, only after our guides explain you the history of the structures will you realize why UNESCO listed them in the cultural heritage sites of the world. Some of these sites are Patan Durbar Square, Pashupatinath Temple, Boudhanath Stupa, Swayambhunath Stupa, etc.

Early in the morning, catch a scenic drive to Pokhara from Kathmandu. It is recommended to hire a jeep instead of traveling in Local Bus (although cheaper option). In terms of distance, Pokhara is only about 200 kilometers away. But, to reach there, it takes over 7 hours. The highway winds up around the hilly sideways and sometimes through the quaint settlements until making an appearance at Pokhara, a land of natural beauty. Because of its naturally aesthetic wonders and the high inflow of visitors, Pokhara is nicknamed as ‘the tourism capital of Nepal’.

Leave Pokhara as early as possible towards Nayapul, a 2 hours drive. Once you reach there, your trekking begins. First, cross a suspension bridge across the Modi Khola to arrive at Birethanti. This town is culturally and economically prosperous and has check posts for Annapurna Permits- ACAP and TIMS. From there, head up towards the Tikhedhunga along the jagged trail. On the way, the fascinating views of the mountains can be seen. But, the real appealing views of the Himalayas- Annapurna Range- only show up in the middle of the trek to Ulleri. This ascent through the steep stone stairs, to reach Ulleri, can be taxing though, but there is another compensating view when you reach the hilltop of Ulleri

After an easy breakfast, leave the village of Ulleri along the easy sections, no more steps now. The trail intrudes through the pleasant forest of Rhododendron and oak, just to show up in the new villages. Nangethanti is one of such wonderful stop-overs that invite magical views all around. After this village, the rest of the walk is through the forest, and eventually, you may witness the fleeting glimpses of the northern Annapurna ranges. Once you reach Ghorepani, explore the local hamlets and chew a chat with the locals.

Poonhill is the heart of the Annapurna. Leave Ghorepani as early as possible towards the Poonhill viewpoint to watch the glorious sunrise over the snowy mountains of Annapurna. This place has never been void of trekkers- mostly crowded. Secure your space and it doesn’t matter whether you climb the view tower or not, the views are literally the same. Later, come back to Ghorepani.

From Ghorepani, the path to Tatopani is pleasant and, at times, touches the dirt road. But, it’s okay as the charm of Tatopani is simply phenomenal. The hot water spring at Tatopani is believed to wash away all the disease and sins (religiously) with a single dive into the water.

From Tatopani, the real adventure of the Mustang begins. For a while, you will be walking around the hills, which are as big as the mountains in some part of the western region. Green and erect, these mountains inspire the trekkers to be strong and patient. Through the winding pathways, you will meet your first spectacular waterfall, Ruptse waterfall, gushing in its own pace. Soon after that, the views of the Dhaulagiri Himal and some parts of the Annapurna region begin to show off. Once you arrive at Ghasa, you will encounter a whole new world waiting for you.

The trek to Marpha invites a range of surprises to you. From the strange Kaligandaki gorge, the deepest gorge in the world, to the astounding views of the green mountains, everything is a surprise for a city soul. The path heads through the bridge across a small but pacing tributary. Then, the trail opens up into a grand and wide riverbed of the Kaligandaki where we will continue for a while until we make an appearance at Marpha. The houses look typically like the mountain houses, which we used to draw at a young age. They are simply outstanding to watch.

After breakfast, leave Marpha and head towards the spectacular village of Kagbeni through Jomsom. The trek begins by crossing some traditional old hamlets of Marpha. Down the riverbed of the Kaligandaki, the trail continues towards the Kagbeni. The drastic variation in the mountain views, after Jomsom, gives the inkling of entering into the arid land of Mustang. But, this change is really a surprise turn from the classic green views. Everything looks gray and brown in the mountains, with no hint of any vegetation. When you reach Kagbeni, the beautiful peaks of the Dhaulagiri and other ranges show up.

Kagbeni to Muktinath is a short and easy trek that rewards you with some of the spectacular views of the mountains and other ranges. The path is barren and accompanies wonderful arid mountains on the other side of a deep canyon. Don’t expect any greenery as you are entering the rain-shadow region of Nepal, which means these regions receive minimum or no rainfall at all. At the Muktinath, there are 108 holy taps, 2 sacred ponds, a man-sized golden statue of Lord Vishnu, and an eternal flame. Some of the sites in Muktinath may be restricted for non-Hindus, so, ask the nearby authority before stepping those forbidden sections of the temple.

Early in the morning, leave the Muktinath temple and return to Kagbeni. From there, the trail follows a gradual steep climb to the village of Tengbe. The colorful Chortens and Mani walls begin appearing in many parts of the trail to wish you good luck. When you reach Tengbe, you will see the transformation in the architecture of the houses. They look unique, like a typical mountain houses. Continue through the riverbed, by the side of the canyon, until you get greeted in the warm and pleasant village of Samar.

From Samar, the rivers of Samarkyung Khola and Ihuwa Khola show up leading us through the small forest of Juniper shrubs. Within a while, the trail crosses the Bhena La pass and descends to the village of Eklo Bhatti, meaning one house stop. From then on, the dirt road continues until Syangmochen, where the sunset views appear intoxicating. While some stay at Syangmochen to witness the sunset, we will continue to the Geling because the closer you approach the north of Nepal, the more you get surprised by the exquisite landscapes and mountains. As expected, the views from Geling are wonderful.

After having breakfast, you will join the trail between the fields towards the northwesterly direction. There is not much sharp altitude gain because of the gradual ascents. But still, you will feel the altitude effects. Within a while, Nyi La pass (4,010 m) appears the highest pass so far. Despite that, the views are not so unique to what is seen on the trail. Finally, the trail climbs over a steep red cliff to show up in the village of Ghami. Be sure to explore the Ghami Monastery, adorned with exquisite paintings of godly images.

From Ghami, the trail continues through a trio of Chortens and runs parallel to the isolated land of no greenery. About 30 mins later, a long Mani wall- the longest in Upper Mustang- shows the path ahead to a cliff. Continue the track until you arrive at a small pass, Choya La, offering better views of the landscapes. Then, the trail drops to the village of Tsarang, a classic Buddhist village. Explore the nearby oasis at Tsarang.                                                                           

The name itself is enough to explain the grandeur of capital Kingdom- Lo Manthang. This city is ringed by a tall 8 ft wall, which gave it a nickname of the walled city. From the Tsarang, the trail climbs a substantial ravine which unveils the beauty signature of Annapurna I, Nilgiri, Tilicho and several other unnamed ranges. A couple of minutes away, a beautiful Sungda Chorten guides you towards the Lo La pass, the last obstacle to reach Lo-Manthang. From the top of the pass, this walled city appears clear and pristine in its habitat. Continue through the arid trail until making an appearance at the Lo Manthang.

This day is left for exploring the Lo Manthang, the capital of the Upper Mustang. The people of this region are called Lhobas, who are very much friendly although many of them don’t understand or speak English. Inside the city, there is a four-story palace, where the King Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista served the Lhobas as their leader until 2008. Besides, the prodigious cave of the Mustang is a living labyrinth of historical Nepal. Much of the cultures and traditions in Upper Mustang are inspired by Tibet, but they are the hybrid of Nepal’s purity and Tibetans culture. There are many more monasteries and Chortens to explore in the Upper Mustang. 

From Lo Manthang, we will retrace our steps back to Ghami and explore the nearby fascinating sites in Ghami, including the Ghami Monastery. Later on, we will check-in to our hotel for the night stay.

From the Ghami, descend back to the Chhuksang via Samar and Chele. The route is the same as before.

Now, we turn to the southeasterly direction towards the Muktinath to witness the classic temple. There are 108 stone taps, 2 sacred lakes, and a small complex, protecting a man-sized golden statue of Lord Vishnu. An eternal flame is considered sacred by the Hindu and Buddhist devotees. Around the Muktinath, the snowy mountains form an impeccable impression. Plus, a nearby monastery at Ranipauwa adds up a diamond in the necklace. This day is indeed going to be a fascinating one.

From Muktinath, there are two ways to reach Jomsom: one via Kagbeni whiles the other via Jharkot. The older trails through Kagbeni follow a dirt road now; therefore, it is better to skip that track and head on through the traditional village of Jharkot, where the views appear much more rigorous and beautiful. Once you arrive at Jomsom, explore the marketplaces. It is worthy of every minute.

Catch an early flight to Pokhara and explore the natural sightseeing places in Pokhara. Some of the most visit sites in Pokhara are Davis Waterfall, Phewa Lake, World Peace Stupa, Mahendra cave, and Chameru cave. Besides, you might not want to miss the paragliding over the lush valleys, zip flying, and many such adventurous activities. You may as well add an extra day in the itinerary to visit the Sarangkot viewpoint.

Finally, the time has come to return to Kathmandu via the same lane you have been earlier. It is still an enjoyable ride.